Followng the Dead and other good things

[yaramaz]

We went to Teotihuacan this morning, which is that big old archaeological site once inhabited by Aztecs and other fun people a millenia or two ago, full of steep pyramids and big avenues, and huge temples to Quetzacoatl and other fine plumed gods. We climbed the Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon and strolled the Avenue of the Dead, eating a coconut Donut of the Dead, checking out the Federal Workers of the Dead digging holes by the side of the cobbly road to the Moon.  Peddlars peddled ornate bird-call whistles and I replied with my own loon call. We expected a horny congregation of Dead Birds to come circling overhead. The vendors giggled. We climbed over tiny, grassy-tufted pyramids en route to Quetzacoatl, imagining opening up a coat shop called Quetza Coatl.  When we reached the temple to Quetzacoatl, we imagined the winged serpent god opening the doors to his home with a lofty, 'Welcome to my crib, yo? This way to see my wardrobe- I have a plumed headdress for every day of the Mayan calendar!'.  MTV film crews tumble down the steep steep steps of the temple.  Mass slaughter everywhere. Lola stands in the midst of the carage, offering up a mouse.

On the bus back to the city, we were serenaded by a man with a guitar, who stood in the aisle singing sad songs in spanish (and a gratuitous 'Til There Was You' by the Beatles, interestingly phoenetic) and who was replaced at a random stop by a large, mustachio'd man selling hand creams out of a bag (with fish oils for softness! And antibacterial!). 

A few days ago, in the midst of some street protests that filled many avenues in the centro, there was a truck trying to make its way down a clogged street. At first the driver spoke into his little microphone, asking the people to please move aside, delivery coming, please move, please. The crowds didnt budge, so he paused, then into his microphone he blurted out a fine Road Runner 'Meep Meep! Meep Meep' and the crowds parted.

Random note: at the Burger King here, they have squirty things for kechup, salsa verde and salsa roja. I ate my fries in salsa verde. It was marvellous.